Inabel Design Techniques
Inabel weaving is renowned for its intricate design techniques, enabling artisans to create countless patterns that reflect their ingenuity and heritage. Here are some of the most notable techniques:
Liniston (Plain Weave)
The Liniston, or plain weave, is the basic pattern that features simple yet elegant designs, often characterized by stripes. Among Ilocano weavers, it is also known as tinartaros and kantarinis. This technique is widely practiced throughout the Ilocos region and Abra.
Pinilian (Brocade Weaving)
The brocade weaving technique, locally called Pinilian, creates designs that appear to float in relief on the surface of the cloth. These patterns are formed using either continuous or discontinuous supplementary weft yarns. Pinilian weaving is a specialty in towns like Paoay, Pinili, Santiago, and Tagudin.
Multi-Heddle Weaving
The multi-heddle weaving technique is used to create textured ground designs. Known locally as tinumbalitian, kinomit, tinubungan, or binutuangan, this technique is traditionally applied in the weaving of blankets.
Binakol (Optical Illusion Patterns)
Binakol is one of the most captivating. Although it uses a plain weave base, it incorporates doubled-hued weft yarns, typically in black and white, to create mesmerizing optical illusion patterns.
Popular Binakol designs include kusikus (whirlpool) and alipugpug (whirlwind), which mimic the movement of whirlpools and whirlwinds. These dizzying patterns were traditionally believed to ward off and distract evil spirits, offering protection to the wearer.
The alipugpug pattern also draws inspiration from the epic Biag ni Lam-ang, where the hero summons the wind for assistance. During the colonial period, Ilocanos used this pattern in the sails of their seafaring vessels, believing it would appease the wind gods and secure their favor.
Inabel is celebrated not only for its beauty but also for its strength and durability. Just like the fabric itself, the tradition of Inabel weaving will continue to endure, passed down from generation to generation, preserving the stories, artistry, and spirit of the Ilocano people.
Impalagto (Warp and Weft Float)
The Impalagto, or Pinalagtuan (meaning “jump” or “hop”), technique produces design patterns with supplementary warp or weft yarns, often in hues that contrast with the background. This technique is known for its reversible design, with one side displaying intricate floating patterns and the other showcasing exposed strands in a “hopping” style.
The famous Inubon nga Sabong (“string of flowers”) design, created by the National Living Treasure Magdalena Gamayo, is crafted using this technique. Her artistry has elevated Impalagto to national recognition.
Celebrate Inabel With Us!
Inabel is more than just fabric—it is a valuable fabric woven by the skilled hands of Ilocano weavers who keep this heritage alive. By supporting Inabel, we honor their craft and help sustain a vital piece of Filipino culture for future generations.
