Inabel is a textile unique to the Ilocos region, traditionally made from cotton. As sourcing cotton has become more difficult over the years due to local scarcity, Inabel weavers turned to the synthetic fiber polyester. Despite this change to the raw material used, much of the intricate weaving process of Inabel today is the same as it was then:
Processing the Cotton
When cotton is used (usually upon the request of a customer), it is first processed. This involves removing seeds from the cotton balls, pounding the cotton, twisting the fiber using a spindle, and winding it into spools of yarn using a skeiner. The yarn is then brushed with either natural dyes or wax to give it color.
Preparing the Loom
The weaver carefully and thoroughly interlaces yarn of different dyes into the warping reel of the loom, counted and arranged into the pattern they plan to weave. This is called the warp yarn (vertical) which is wound into the warp beam rod. It sometimes takes weeks to finish this part of the set-up, as any error calls for a complete overhaul. After, the spool of weft yarn (horizontal) is put in the shuttle.
Weaving
The shuttle is passed back and forth between the warp yarn to form the textile, all while utilizing the hardwood pedals at the bottom of the loom to make “switches” for the pattern. Weaving is typically about a month or longer, depending on the length of the textile, the complexity of the design, and the mastery of the weaver.
Each step of pag-aabel reflects the skill and artistry of Ilocanos, reminding us of the enduring beauty of the Filipino craftsmanship.